Fashion Design Drawing

the pattern, using the lining piece as a guide. Slash the pattern fronts like the lining, separating the pieces of the pattern in the same way and to the same extent, and paste a piece

of tissue-paper under the slash.

Never use the altered lining to cut your real lining. The lining material would stretch in handling and would not make an accurate, reliable pattern. Keep the corrected tissue pattern and use it for any waist or dress that calls for a French lining. The change here suggested and illustrated is for a figure of extreme fulness at the bust. It will not, of course, be necessary to make so great an alteration for figures more nearly the normal shape.

FOR A SMALL BUST Figure 190A shows the same French lining pattern, slashed and adjusted to fit a figure with an extra small bust. This represents an extreme case, where the bust is very small, although the measure taken about the bust is the same as for a figure of average shape. Where the bust is not so small that is to say, but slightly undersized such extreme alterations are unnecessary.

Here again you make up your waist lining in unbleached muslin, just as the woman with the large bust would do.

The experimental lining is put on

Fashion Design Drawing - Use Of Butterick Patterns 11.jpg

carefully, but it is not necessary to pin a piece of material under it. When the lining is on the figure, the size that is not taken up by the bust will drop in wrinkles below the full part of the figure. (Fig. 190.) The alteration is made at the same point as the alteration for the overfull bust. The lining is again slashed straight across the front to the side-front seams and from the seams upward to within three-quarters of an inch of the notches in the front of the armhole. (Fig. 190 A.) Lap the slashed edges until the lining sets smoothly and comfortably on the figure. Do not try to make it snug or tight. There should be plenty of room so that the lining dots not cramp or confine the figure, and so that you can breathe comfortably.

Pin the edges of the slash (Fig. 190 A), remove the lining, baste in the alteration, and try the lining on again. If it fits perfectly, take it off and rip it apart. You will find that the edges of the side-front seams are jagged from the lap laid across the lining.

Even them off, following the original seam-line. Correct your paper pattern in the

same way. Slash the pieces and lap them as you did in the lining, pasting the edges

together.

These alterations for a large or small bust may be made on this kind of a lining usually