CHAPTER IV
PRACTICAL AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES
TAILORS' TACKS are used in cutting out garments to mark seams, perforations, etc. They are used to give a clean exact line for the sewing. When laying out the pattern on the material, mark all the perforations as directed in the pattern instructions with chalk and cut the pieces. Then with a double thread baste through both thicknesses of the cloth wherever it is marked, alternating one long and one short stitch. Leave the long stitches loose enough to form a loop under which a finger can be passed. (Fig. 71.) Then cut every long stitch and separate the two pieces, cutting the threads that still hold them together as you go along. There will then be enough stitches in each piece to indicate the sewing line plainly, and both pieces will be marked exactly alike. For waists or coats, or for any curved outline, the tack stitches should be quite short.
In using tailors' tacks for marking long tucks or plaits in skirts, etc., the loose stitch may be an inch and a half long and not left in a loop, its length supplying the neces-sary thread for pulling through between the two pieces of cloth.
BAR-TACKS make a very neat and serviceable finish for the ends of seams, tucks
and plaits, and the corners of collars,
pockets and pocket laps of tailored
garments. Fig. 72 illustrates the
process of making the simple bar-tack,
generally used as a stay for pocket
openings. Mark the length desired