Fashion Design Drawing

CHAPTER V

BIAS TRIMMINGS

BIAS BANDS, folds, ruffles, facings, etc., must be cut on a true bias to give satisfactory-results. For rounding corners or following curved lines, or making folds or ruffles hang gracefully, it is impossible to use successfully material that is cut on the straight of the weave. To maintain a perfect bias, the strips should be of equal width throughout their entire length.

Fashion Design Drawing - Bias Trimmings 1.jpg

Sometimes, in cutting, if the material is very pliable, the edges will stretch, and in time the cutting line will deviate from the original mark. It is well, in cutting many strips, to test the bias line occasionally, by laying the yard-stick across the material, and cutting a new edge if the old one is not even.

True Bias is obtained by spreading the material on the table and making a mark seven or eight inches from one corner on both the selvage and the cut end. Lay a yard-stick across the corner, touching both these marks, and draw a line. (Fig. 103.) Make as many marks on both edges as there are strips needed, marking them the required width. Then cut, carefully following the line and using sharp scissors.

When the material for the bias bands is alike on both sides, as in the case of corded silk, for instance, be careful to have the cut strips all on the same bias.

TO JOIN BIAS STRIPS, lay the two diagonal ends together as shown in Figure 104 and baste in a seam. (Fig. 104.) It will then be seen that when the joined strips are lapped back, the grain of both pieces runs correctly in the same direction. (Fig. 104 A.)

BANDS or FOLDS USED AS TRIMMING are made in a variety of ways. They may be lined, unlined, double of the material, or piped at the edges. Cut the band the required width, allowing for a turning at both edges.

The Unlined Fold, illustrated on the following page, has its lower edge basted up in a hem, and stitched evenly from the right side. The upper edge is turned over, and the band is then basted into position on the garment. The upper edge is stitched through the garment, making the one stitching serve two purposes. (Fig. 105.)

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The Lined Fold is finished before it is applied to the garment. Cut a strip of canvas or crinoline, as wide as the band should be when completed. Baste it evenly on the wrong