CHILDREN'S CLOTHES
CHILDREN'S CLOTHES should be made very simply. Use a good quality material and suitably childish colors. The one-piece dress is an accepted style for small boys and girls, and can be made of wool, linen or cotton materials. Directions for finishing dresses made of sheer materials will be found in Chapter IX, "Infants' Clothes." For instructions on the making of a sailor or naval suit, see Chapter XL
THE RUSSIAN DRESS has a side-front closing, and the buttonholes may be made through the material or in a fly applied underneath the overlapping edge. Patterns for this style of garment are to be had either with or without plaits. A good design for little folks is a perfectly plain dress confined at the waist with a belt of leather or of the dress material. An inverted plait is sometimes allowed at the under-arm seams, which gives extra fulness to the skirt. The neck and wrists, and sometimes the closing edges, are usually finished with narrow bands.
A Plaited Design is very becoming to little girls, The front
and back portions of the dress are laid in plaits which are
stitched only to the belt line. The closing is arranged under one
of the plaits, either at the front or back. Before cutting out,
place the front and back of pattern on the material, and if piecing is necessary, plan to have the joining concealed under a plait. Mark all perforations and notches plainly on the material. To make the box plaits, bring the lines of perforations together; baste and stitch through them. Bring the center of the plait over the line of stitching and spread it to form a box plait. Baste the plait in position along both folds and stitch it down, if desired. A crow's-foot (Fig. 155) worked at the end of each row of stitching may be used. The method of making a crow's-foot is given in Chapter IV, "Practical and Ornamental Stitches."
The Closing, cut under a plait and finished with laps for buttons and buttonholes, is shown in Fig. 156. The slash for the opening was made under the plait a seam's width from the sewing. The laps are made double, and when attached should be a little narrower than the plait which covers them. By referring to the illustration, the method of joining the laps to the edges of the open
A Buttonhole Fly is provided in some patterns by a hem allowed under the plait. The edge is turned under once, and basted as for a hem, but not stitched. The raw edge is not turned in a seam, but is inserted in the box plait and secured with the one stitch-