Fashion Design Drawing

BOYS' SUITS

THE MAKING of a boy's suit is not at all a difficult matter if one goes about it in the right way. There are a few tedious details of finish, the proper carrying out of which determines the success of the suit. A hot iron is a necessary requisite to good work, and its frequent use will help much toward the progress of the suit. Follow the pattern directions closely and there will be no trouble.

Before Cutting have the cloth shrunk and pressed. Then lay the entire pattern out on the material to the best advantage, as explained in the pattern instructions. With tailors' chalk trace the seams along the perforations that indicate the sewing line of the outlet seams. With tailors' tacks, one long and two short stitches (see Chapter IV), mark these seams through the two thicknesses of the cloth. Cut the stitches and separate the pieces.

The various sections of the suit should have the pockets in place before they are joined. Mark the positions of the pockets as indicated by the perforations.

THE TROUSERS will be our first consideration. As the initial step, baste and stitch the darts in the back portions of the trousers, and press them open. In the right-back portion make a pocket, instructions for which will be found on page 104, Chapter XX, "Pockets."

The Fly is next put into the front portion. Baste a facing, cut from the fly-piece pattern, to the outside of the front edge of the left-front portion, with the notches even. Stitch a narrow seam from the top to the notch. Turn the facing to the wrong side, and baste it flat, with the cloth at the seam edge entirely covering the lining.

Now lay together, face to face, two fly pieces, one of cloth and one of lining, and stitch a seam on the notched edge from the top to the notch. Turn it to the right side, baste flat and press.

It is more convenient to make the buttonholes in the fly now, than after it is stitched in place. They are worked from the cloth side, the first one coming just below the waistband. Then baste the fly into position, its edge a trifle back of the edge on the left front of the trousers. Stitch one-quarter inch back of the buttonholes, through the four thicknesses of goods, down from the waistband, ending in a curved line on the lower edge. (Fig. 318.) Tack the fly between the buttonholes to the facing. Overcast the raw edges on the inside.

The underlapping fly piece for the buttons on the right front of the trousers should be faced with lining; the seam sewed at the unnotched edge. The notched edge of the cloth piece is then basted and stitched to the edge of the right front of the trousers. This seam is then pressed open. Turn under the lining, clipping the edge to make it lie flat, and baste it to the cloth seam. From the right side stitch neatly an even line down close to the bastings and across the free edge at the bottom.

Fashion Design Drawing - Boys Suits 1.jpg

Small trousers buttons are sewed on in position corresponding to the buttonholes on the opposite fly.

For the Smaller Boys, when buttons and buttonholes are impracticable, the small facing provided for in the pattern is attached to the right side of both of the fronts, turned in and stitched down. (Fig. 317, page 128.) The front seam is then closed from the notch above to the waistline.