CHAPTER II

BUTTONHOLES

A WELL-MADE GARMENT that is otherwise perfect may be greatly injured in appearance by badly made buttonholes. They should always be properly spaced and marked before they are cut. Mark the points for the top and bottom buttonholes, and divide the distance between these two points into the desired number of spaces. The slit must be cut on the thread of the goods, if possible, and must be large enough to allow the button to slip through easily, as a buttonhole becomes tighter after it is worked.

With the buttonhole scissors carefully test the length of the slit and make a clean cut with one movement of the scissors. One of the most noticeable faults in buttonholing results from an uneven or ragged slit. This may be caused by dull scissors or by the slipping of the fabric. To prevent the material from slipping, baste around the cutting line before using the scissors.

There are three kinds of buttonholes, one with the bar at both ends (Fig. 49), another

with one round and one barred end (Fig. 50), and a third called the tailor's buttonhole. (Fig. 51.)

BARRED BUTTONHOLES as illustrated in Figs. 49 and 50 are used for underwear, waists and shirts. If the buttonhole is in an upright position as in the center of a plait, or if the strain does not come at the ends of the buttonhole, as at the center back of a neck-band, the buttonhole with a bar at both Fashion Design Drawing - Buttonholes 1.jpg

ends (Fig. 49) is used. If

the strain on the buttonhole comes at one end so that the

button requires a resting-place as in a cuff or belt, use the buttonhole with the round end. (Fig. 50.) Buttonholes are

stranded to prevent the edges from stretching. Bring the

needle up at one end of the buttonhole, and, allowing the

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