Fashion Design Drawing

CARL OF THE CLOTHES

GOOD PRESSING is a very important part of dressmaking and tailoring. Special boards and tailor's cushions may be made at home or bought from any dressmakers' supply house. (Chapter XII, page 61.)

In opening seams, dampen the seam, if the material will permit it, and press slowly, bearing down heavily on the iron. Very little dampness should be used on cashmere, as it flattens the twill and spoils the texture. Little or no dampness should be used on silk, A cloth, well wrung out of water, may be used on these materials, and their seams may be dampened slightly. Seams should be pressed over the curved edge of an ironing-board so that the seam edges will not be marked on the garment. Velvet must not be pressed, but should be steamed so as not to injure the nap. To steam velvet, heat an iron and place it face up between two cold irons arranged so as to hold the hot iron firmly, (Fig. 325.) Lay a damp piece of muslin over the face of the iron and draw the velvet over the muslin. The steam will have the effect of pressing the velvet without hurting the pile. Seams can be opened in this way, and this method can be used on velvet, plush, wool velvet, materials with a high nap, satin and silk.

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Velvet may be mirrored or panned by passing an iron over the surface of the velvet, ironing with the nap. After velvet has gone through this process it can be pressed as much as is necessary. If the iron can be held with the flat surface upward by a milliner's steam-ing-box or a tin box, the seams of perishable materials can be pressed open by running the seam over the surface of the iron.

Nearly all pressing is done on the wrong side. Suitings and heavy cloth may be pressed on the right side by steaming. Wring out a cloth as dry as possible and keep it over the place to be pressed. Have the irons hot and press firmly until the cloth is nearly dry. Turn the garment to the wrong side and press until thoroughly dry.

The shine which sometimes comes in pressing may be removed by placing a dry cloth over the shiny place. Then wring out as dry as possible a second cloth which has been thoroughly wet. Place it over the dry one, and with a hot iron pass lightly over the spot. If the material has a nap requiring raising, the place may be brushed with a stiff brush and the process of steaming repeated.

Many fabrics retain the imprint of the basting-thread under heavy pressing. For such material it is necessary to give a light pressing first, removing all basting-threads before the final pressing.

ALL CLOTHES should be taken care of as systematically as possible, as their period of usefulness depends entirely on the way they are treated. Lingerie and washable waists and dresses should be mended before they go to the laundry. A small hole will become a large one in washing, and not only is the work of mending doubled, but the injury to the garment is frequently irreparable.

Woolen clothes dresses, suits, coats, skirts, etc., should be brushed regularly and watched closely for such small matters as loose buttons, frayed skirt-braids, missing hooks and eyes, and soiled chemisettes or yokes. Coats should never be left lying carelessly over chairs, and should never be hung up by the collar or armhole. They should be kept on hangers when they are not in use so that their necks and shoulders will not lose their shape.

Dresses and waists should also be kept on hangers, and if they are made of light, perishable materials they should be slipped into great bags of silkoline to keep them from

the dust. The bag should be as long as the waist or dress. If one has plenty of closet room, it is much better to keep one's evening dresses hanging up in bags than to lay them in chests or drawers where they can not fail to become badly wrinkled.