Fashion Design Drawing

center to the depth given for the opening in the pattern instructions. Each edge of the opening is finished with a tiny hem. A plait is then made deep enough to bring the opening back one-half inch from the edge. It is held in place by a slanting row of stitching at the end of the opening. (Fig. 149.)

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THE KIMONO or WRAPPER is a very practical garment and may be made of flannel, cashmere or any light-weight woolen material. A very pretty little garment may be made of French flannel, dotted or plain, with a shaped band of contrasting silk or flannel. (Fig. 150.)

The garment is collarless, and the neck and front edges, as well as the sleeves, are finished with shaped bands. The band is basted to the inside of the wrapper, along the neck and front edges. After it is stitched on, the band is rolled over on the outside of the wrapper and basted in such a manner that it extends a trifle beyond the joining seam. The other edge of the band is turned in and basted flat to the material and is held in position by a simple featherstitch. When a straight band is used, one long edge is joined to the wrapper with the seam toward the outside; the other edge is then turned under and basted over the seam as shown in Fig. 151.

French knots and various fancy stitches, scallops or little trailing vines of embroidery can be used very effectively in the trimming of these wrappers. Silk or satin ribbon may be used for the straight band. Some of these kimono wrappers are lined throughout with soft India silk. The wrapper design mentioned above is perforated in the correct length for a house sack. This convenient little garment is made like the wrapper in every particular, except the length.

A dainty little sack is made of white cashmere lined with pale pink India silk.

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Both the outside and lining portions are cut exactly alike, the seams stitched and pressed open. The sack and lining are then basted together, with seams turned toward the inside. The sleeve portions are gathered separately at the top. Sew the outside material of the sleeve in at the armhole. Turn the raw edge of the sleeve lining under, gather it and hem to the armhole. A tiny turnover collar may be added with the same kind of finish. The edges of the sack may be turned in and secured with a row of featherstitching, or they may be buttonholed together by a scalloped edge. Both finishes are shown in Chapter IV "Practical and Ornamental Stitches."

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THE DRESS is made practically in the same way as the slip. Nothing but the finest material should be used, batiste, nainsook or sheer linen. Simple designs with a few hand-run tucks, a bit of embroidery, featherstitching or drawn - work make a far daintier gown than heavy material, lavishly trimmed with lace or machine embroidery. There are many excellent patterns for baby dresses, and one who has the time and taste to spend on the layette will find it a fascinating occupation.

A Dainty Yoke may be made by over-handing alternate rows of lace insertion and embroidery together. Fine tucking rolled and whipped to lace insertion, also makes a pretty yoke. Narrow veining or hemstitched beading as shown in Fig. 152, joins the yoke to the dress. It is rolled and whipped on, or sewed in a tiny French seam. The shoulder seams are joined by beading, which is also used as a finish for the neck and sleeves.

If the Skirt is made of flouncing with an embroidered or hemstitched edge, the fulness under the arm is usually disposed of in an inverted plait. This plait takes the place of a gored seam and enables one to keep the outlines at the bottom perfectly straight. The edges are joined at the back to a convenient depth for the opening and a placket is finished as shown in Fig. 148.

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