If a fold of the drapery or sash has a reverse side of equal beauty it should be folded over in its radiating lines and brought to notice. This point of interest has been shown in the Plate, on the train in the first figure, and on the sash in the last.
When the drapery is too thin the natural radiation of the folds is often disturbed by uneven crumpling of the material, which is inclined to fly away from its proper direction and fall into crumpled masses in the hollow spaces. It is better to place in the chief main radiating lines first, then the lesser, finally the adverse creases and hollows.
Drapery looks better for a certain amount of breeze, creating a look of life. Its natural character is to form into radiating lines, and if struck by a prominence will fall over it and outline the shape in passing.
Drapery as Applied to Folds (Plate 38).
The figure represented in this Plate has a simple piece of drapery hanging from the shoulder. Observe how the loose drapery strikes upon projecting parts of the figure, viz., breast, hips, elbows and knees.
The folds A and B are falling across the breast, then sinking away into the open space around the waist. The folds at G run into the hollow at waist, and smooth out again on the flat plane of the abdomen. The prominences at C and D give fresh points of suspension for drapery folds.
As the figure is supported on one leg, the forward knee throws out another fold E across the body, pulling the sides into the hollows of the leg. The slanting leg arrests the fall of drapery on the right, the opposite side flowing out without a check. The standing knee will take a slighter fold while drooping into the hollow space at the side of the leg.
By feeling around your shapes in the manner described, beautiful lines and folds will be evolved.
An example of finished drapery has been shown (as Fig. 3), the upper portion being overhung by ornamental arrangements of folds, so that it will rely on beautiful lines to give grace. The lower part, although of heavy material, gives indications of the arm beneath.
The treatment of folds at the end of dress would be somewhat in the manner of Fig. 2, if the hem were of equal length all around. (Note construction fine of ellipse at H.) A three-quarter view has been shown with the perspective on the left-hand side (see also Fig. 4).
The falling folds should not be in even and regular shapes, although they will all conform to the outer edge of the ellipse. Some will fall with a sharper edge than others, or might drop into deeper curves to the back. Variety of size and shape will give beauty to the folds.
Drapery as Applied to Dress (Plate 39).