Fashion Design Drawing

Measurements

You have to measure, first of all,
with your eye; and by studying the
model judge the comparative measure-
ments of its several masses. Then
measure mechanically. When measur-
ing mechanically, hold your charcoal
or pencil between the thumb and
fingers and use the first finger and the
tip of your charcoal to mark the ex-
tremities of the measurement you are
taking. Your arm should be extended
to its full length and your head so
tilted that your eye is as near as pos-
sible to the shoulder of the arm you
are using in measuring.

From the model, the space regis-
tered from the first finger to the end of
your charcoal or pencil may be one
inch; but on your drawing this meas-
urement may possibly be two or more
inches. In other words, all your meas-
urements are comparative and if the
head spaces seven times into the length
of the figure and registers, say, one
inch on your charcoal or pencil, obvi-
ously the height of seven heads should
be marked off on your drawing regard-
less of the size of your drawing, which
size you had, in a general way, pre-
determined and may be anywhere
from miniature to mural. The arm has

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its axis at its connection with the shoulder blade. The eye, being above the
arm and more forward, has an entirely different axis and radius; arms and
necks vary in length. Also, in measuring, as in target practice, it is natural
for some to close the left eye, others the right, and still others to keep both
eyes open. So, with these varying conditions it is difficult to set down any
fixed rules for the technique of measuring, your own physique and tendency
to use one or both eyes are such important factors. In any case, however,
you must keep your eye as close as possible to the shoulder, your arm
extended and stiff.

On a figure, there are no marks that may be used in proving your measure-
ments correct. Again, the model may be far above the level of the eye,
causing violent perspective. Only at the eye level can the pencil be held
perpendicularly. Above or below the eye level, the pencil or charcoal must
take some studied and given angle, and to determine this angle accurately
requires some practice. To find this angle, take a panelled wall or a vertical
pole and upon it mark off six or seven spaces a foot or so apart. Then
seat yourself several feet away and at arm's length, with eye close to shoulder,
incline charcoal or pencil to register cor-
rectly each of the spaces you have marked
off. As in revolver practice, you will be-
come extremely accurate in judging the
angle at which the charcoal should be held
at different distances. This same method
of angles may then be applied to measuring
the figure.

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